My Summer Car
Hints and Tips:
---------------
Submitted by: David K.
-= Start Smart Before Building =-
The Satsuma is easiest to finish when you treat the first shopping trip as a build
supply run instead of improvising after the engine is together.
* Buy an alternator belt, a spark-plug box, motor oil, coolant, and three bottles of
brake/clutch fluid. A fresh battery is also a good early purchase because the old
garage battery can be weak.
* Take the gasoline can with you and fill it. The Satsuma uses gasoline; the tractor,
van, and truck are diesel vehicles.
* Order the ratchet set and fuel-mixture gauge early. The ratchet speeds up the large
build, while the gauge makes carburetor tuning much easier to verify.
* The old wheels are at the abandoned mansion. Treat the wasp nest there as a real
hazard rather than lingering in the attic.
* Installing the engine block, the driver seat, or the left rear trail arm starts
Uncle's hidden progression timer. Do one of those early if you want access to the
Hayosiko and later the Gifu.
-= Quick Route to Teimo's Store =-
For a safer first land trip, use the highway route. At the first intersection from
home, turn left; at the four-way junction turn right; when you reach the highway,
turn right again and follow it to Perajarvi. The dirt-road route that starts to the
right is shorter, but it is much less forgiving at speed.
-= Save, Survival, and House Safety =-
* Save at toilets and outhouses. Before a risky rally, major engine rebuild, or save
edit, make a separate backup of the save folder as well.
* Hunger, thirst, stress, urine, and fatigue can become lethal. Fatigue begins
causing blackout risk at very high levels, so do not treat long drives as safe just
because the Satsuma is mechanically healthy.
* Do not leave the sauna, stove, or television running unattended. Appliances can
start a house fire, and the sauna becomes dangerous if held at maximum heat for too
long.
* Keep the house doors closed when practical. Wasps can enter through an open door
and become a serious problem inside the house.
-= Battery and Wiring Safety =-
* Before adding wiring, disconnect at least the battery negative terminal. The
September 2025 build can electrocute the player while working on the alternator or
starter if the battery is still connected.
* When reconnecting the battery, tighten positive first and negative last. When
removing it, disconnect negative first.
* The starter has two special electrical fasteners: the positive lead uses a 5 mm
connection and the ground lead requires the front 7 mm starter bolt to be loose
while the connection is made.
-= Money Without Wasting Your Week =-
* Firewood is dependable once the customer calls. A full trailer is 160 split pieces,
or 80 logs chopped into two pieces, and the full delivery pays 3,200 mk.
* Septic work becomes available after the Gifu progression unlock. Each full customer
well is worth 1,200 mk; dump legally at the treatment plant or illegal waste can
become an expensive police problem.
* Wrecked-car towing is excellent one-time early money because it does not require
the Satsuma to be roadworthy.
* Teimo's advertisement job is low-risk income and now has an extra long-term
benefit: after the September 2025 update, some store prices keep rising until
enough product advertisements have been delivered.
-= Perfect Kilju =-
1. Get the 30-liter brewing bucket from the island cottage and collect empty juice
bottles.
2. Use six bags of sugar and one packet of yeast, then fill the bucket with water. A
tap works, and you can also submerge the bucket in the lake to fill it quickly.
This matches the 5-parts-water to 1-part-sugar recipe for a full 30-liter batch.
3. Fit the lid and leave it on while the brew works. Keeping the lid off lets vinegar
develop and lowers the value.
4. Wait until bubbling has completely stopped. Expect roughly 2.5 real hours of
active play time; sleeping and save/reload time skips do not speed the brew. Then
fill the empty juice bottles. A full bucket fills 20 bottles.
5. Sell to Jouko at his table. A properly brewed batch can pay 170 mk per bottle, or
3,400 mk for 20 bottles.
6. After Jouko finishes the sold bottles, recover the empties at the landfill near
the outhouse and reuse them for the next batch.
-= Road-Legal Changes That Matter in Current Builds =-
* The September 2025 update requires a windshield tax sticker for passenger cars. Do
not rely on an old inspection checklist that predates this change.
* Driving an unregistered vehicle or using missing/expired plates is separately
punishable at police checkpoints. Seatbelt and helmet violations can also cost
fixed fines.
* Police checkpoints are much more common from Friday through Sunday than on
weekdays: the current logic uses a 50 percent weekend chance versus 10 percent
otherwise when the daily/load roll occurs.
Console Commands:
-----------------
-= Enable the Hidden Console =-
The retail game still contains a hidden developer console, but access is not shown
for a normal driver name. Use the case-sensitive last name Rauhijoketti when creating
the driver, then open the pause/options screen with F1 or Esc. The console is a
developer relic, so save first: individual commands can be build-sensitive.
-= Command List =-
* ARVO - Enable/get the Arvo-Algotson combine harvester.
* COLL - Toggle extra tree colliders.
* CLIP - Toggle noclip.
* DATA - Run the car debug function. This command is reported as unreliable in some
later builds.
* DATE <1-7> - Change the day value. This is reported as build-sensitive.
* DRAG - Teleport to the airfield.
* ENDI - Trigger the ending display.
* FARM - Teleport to the farm.
* HEMO - Teleport home.
* JAIL - Teleport to jail.
* KEKE - Toggle god mode.
* KESA - Teleport to the theater.
* KEYS - Give vehicle keys.
* KILL - Remove the Satsuma from the world.
* LEFA - Teleport to Fleetari's repair shop.
* MANS - Teleport to the mansion.
* MOKK - Teleport to the island cottage.
* MUMM - Teleport to Grandma's house.
* OCCL - Toggle occlusion culling.
* PASK - Teleport to the wastewater treatment plant.
* PIGG - Teleport to the Ventti house.
* POOR - Add the specified amount of money.
* PORO - Add power to the Ferndale.
* RALL - Teleport to the dirt road near Teimo's area.
* RBED - Apply sleep/rest.
* RCAR - Return the Satsuma home.
* RTRA - Return the tractor home.
* RVAN - Return the van home.
* SALE - Teleport to Teimo's store.
* SEIV - Save the game.
* SHIT - Fill the Gifu septic tank.
* SOBE - Clear drunkenness.
* TANS - Teleport to the dance pavilion.
* TIME <0-24> - Change the hour value. This is reported as build-sensitive.
* WEAR - Remove part wear.
* WEAT - Change the weather.
Save Edit:
----------
-= Use MSCEditor as a Repair Tool, Not a First Resort =-
MSCEditor can inspect and alter the game's text saves. Back up the entire save folder
before editing, close the game, then open the save in MSCEditor.
* The Windows save folder is under AppData\LocalLow\Amistech\My Summer Car.
* Satsuma Report is the safest diagnostic starting point. It shows whether a part is
installed, how many bolts are fastened, damage state, and abnormal stuck parts.
* Fix loose bolts can fasten installed parts in one batch. Repair all parts repairs
damage, while Repair bodywork resets dents by removing the body mesh-save data.
* Install wiring can repair a badly incomplete electrical system, but the editor
itself warns that the action can miss battery-terminal-related bolts. Recheck the
starter and battery connections in game afterward.
* The map can locate saved objects and teleport a lost object to a known location.
Use this before assuming a missing part has been deleted.
* Editing raw values can break PlayMaker state machines. Change only values you
understand, make one change at a time, and keep the untouched backup.
Unlockables:
------------
-= Hayosiko Van and Gifu Septic Truck =-
Uncle progression is timer-driven, not tied to a fixed calendar week. Installing the
engine block, driver seat, or left rear trail arm starts the first random
2,000-to-5,000-second wait. Uncle then cycles between away/home states.
* When Uncle appears at home with the Hayosiko, talk to him to borrow the van and
obtain access to its keys.
* A separate 12,000-second progression timer runs through Uncle's later sequence.
Once he loses his license and gives up the truck, the Gifu keys unlock septic well
calls and the truck becomes the core tool for that job family.
* Sleeping or traveling far from home can advance Uncle between away/home states;
standing beside his house does not force the event and can leave his timer paused
while he is present.
-= Ruscko =-
Win the Ruscko through Ventti to receive its keys. You can also take it without the
keys and start it with the screwdriver, but then you must keep the screwdriver with
you. Neutralize the active wasp nest first: use a fire extinguisher when the wasps
are inactive or carefully dunk the car with a tractor/Gifu and tow it back out. The
starter is deliberately unreliable, so expect several attempts.
Solutions:
----------
-= Satsuma Stock Engine - Complete Bolt Checklist =-
Build the engine on the garage floor or bench, then hoist it into the body. This
checklist covers the stock running assembly and the fasteners most often missed.
* Crankshaft into block; three main bearings - 2 x 9 mm each.
* Four pistons - 2 x 7 mm each.
* Head gasket; cylinder head - 10 x 7 mm.
* Four spark plugs - tighten with the spark-plug wrench.
* Rocker shaft - 5 x 8 mm; rocker cover later - 6 x 7 mm.
* Camshaft - 2 x 5 mm; camshaft gear - 1 x 10 mm; timing chain.
* Timing cover - 6 x 6 mm; water pump - 5 x 7 mm.
* Crankshaft pulley - 1 x 11 mm; water-pump pulley - 4 x 7 mm.
* Distributor - screwdriver adjustment after installation.
* Alternator - 1 x 7 mm, 1 x 10 mm, plus screwdriver tension adjustment; install the
belt before final tensioning.
* Engine plate; starter - 2 x 7 mm. Leave the front starter bolt loose until its
ground wire is attached.
* Carburetor - 4 x 8 mm; headers - 5 x 8 mm.
* Flywheel - 6 x 7 mm; clutch disc and pressure plate; clutch assembly - 6 x 6 mm.
* Oil pan - 8 x 7 mm plus the 13 mm drain plug.
* Gearbox - 6 x 7 mm and 1 x 10 mm; drive gear - 7 x 6 mm.
* Fuel pump - 2 x 7 mm; air filter - 2 x 6 mm; oil filter tightened by hand.
* Hoist points - 2 x 10 mm. When the engine is positioned in the bay, secure the
three motor-mount bolts with 11 mm.
-= Cam Timing Before the First Start =-
After the camshaft gear is bolted down, rotate the gear until its small timing notch
points directly toward the crankshaft timing mark. Do this before fitting the timing
chain and cover. A badly mistimed cam can damage the engine immediately.
-= Satsuma Chassis and Controls - Complete Bolt Checklist =-
* Subframe - 4 x 10 mm; steering rack - 4 x 9 mm; steering column - 2 x 8 mm.
* Two wishbones - 2 x 10 mm each; two spindles - 1 x 12 mm each.
* Two steering rods - 1 x 12 mm each, shared with the struts.
* Two disc brakes - 1 x 14 mm each, shared with the halfshafts.
* Two halfshafts - 3 x 9 mm and 1 x 14 mm each.
* Two struts - 4 x 9 mm, 3 x 10 mm, and 1 x 12 mm each.
* Steering adjustment nut - 14 mm each side. The full travel is 120 clicks: turn to
one stop, then return exactly 60 clicks for a centered baseline.
* Two trailing arms - 2 x 12 mm each; two coil springs.
* Two rear shocks - 1 x 12 mm and 2 x 6 mm each; drums - 1 x 14 mm each.
* Four wheels - 4 x 13 mm each.
-= Satsuma Body, Lines, and Cabin - Complete Bolt Checklist =-
* Electrics module - 2 x 8 mm; fuel strainer - 1 x 8 mm; radiator - 4 x 7 mm.
* Three radiator hoses use screwdriver clamps: 1, 2, and 2 clamps respectively.
* Clutch master cylinder - 1 x 9 mm and 2 x 8 mm; brake master cylinder - 1 x 9 mm
and 2 x 8 mm.
* Clutch line - 2 x 7 mm; brake line - 11 x 7 mm total, including the four wheel-end
connections.
* Steering wheel - 1 x 10 mm; fuel tank - 7 x 11 mm plus 1 x 12 mm at the line.
* Gear stick - 3 x 6 mm; gear linkage - 3 x 5 mm.
* Dashboard - 2 x 10 mm; dashboard meters - 2 x 6 mm; RPM gauge or clock - 2 x 7 mm.
* Each headlight - 2 x 7 mm; grille - 2 x 6 mm; each bumper - 2 x 8 mm.
* Rear seat - 2 x 9 mm; each front seat - 4 x 9 mm.
* Handbrake - 4 x 8 mm, then the 1 x 5 mm fastener last.
* Exhaust pipe - 3 x 7 mm; muffler - 1 x 7 mm.
* Each door - 4 x 10 mm; each fender - 5 x 5 mm; boot lid - 4 x 6 mm; hood - 4 x 6
mm.
-= Complete Stock Wiring - 24 Connections =-
Use the wiring mess and press the interaction key when the connection checkmark
appears. The order is flexible. Keep the battery negative disconnected while working.
* Rear connector -> fuel tank.
* Rear connector -> left rear light.
* Rear connector -> right rear light.
* Front connector -> left headlight. Unbolt/remove the headlight first.
* Front connector -> right headlight. Unbolt/remove the headlight first.
* Front connector -> firewall connector.
* Firewall connector -> battery positive.
* Firewall connector -> electrics/ignition coil.
* Firewall connector -> radiator.
* Fusebox -> temperature/fuel gauge.
* Fusebox -> ignition switch in the steering column.
* Fusebox -> hazard/cigarette-lighter switch group.
* Right dashboard connector -> amplifier power.
* Right dashboard connector -> radio/CD player.
* Left dashboard connector -> wiper/headlight switches.
* Left dashboard connector -> fuel-mixture gauge.
* Left dashboard connector -> extra gauges.
* Battery positive -> starter; secure the starter lead with the 5 mm fastener.
* Battery negative -> starter ground; loosen the front 7 mm starter bolt first.
* Firewall connector -> regulator.
* Regulator -> alternator.
* Amplifier audio port -> CD player.
* Amplifier right port -> right subwoofer.
* Amplifier left port -> left subwoofer.
-= Fill Every Fluid Before Cranking =-
* Fill engine oil through the rocker-cover filler and tighten the oil filter and 13
mm oil-pan drain plug.
* Fill the radiator with coolant and tighten its cap.
* Fill both brake and clutch master cylinders with brake fluid. Recheck after the
first drive for leaks from an untightened line nut.
* Fill the fuel tank with gasoline. A complete electrical system cannot compensate
for an empty tank.
-= First Start and Baseline Tuning =-
1. Before cranking, confirm cam timing, oil, coolant, fuel, battery polarity, starter
wires, and tight spark plugs.
2. For a safe initial valve baseline, back each of the eight rocker adjustments to
its end stop, then move seven clicks toward the normal range. Once running, a more
precise method is to loosen each valve until it ticks, then tighten one click
until that valve stops ticking.
3. Start cold with the choke pulled. Do not hold high RPM while the engine is cold.
4. Set alternator-belt tension with the engine running: loosen until the belt begins
to squeal, then tighten only enough to stop the squeal. Excess tension shortens
belt life.
5. Tune the distributor with its screw loosened slightly. Advance until the
high-pitched chirp begins, then retard it click by click until the chirp just
stops.
6. Warm the engine before carburetor tuning. Around 14.7 AFR is a strong road and
inspection baseline. Do not chase a rich maximum-power setup for inspection; a
very lean mixture raises heat and a very rich one runs poorly.
-= No-Start Diagnosis - Follow the Symptom =-
Do not replace random parts. Separate an electrical no-crank from a crank/no-fire
condition first.
* No dash power and no starter sound: check battery charge, battery terminals,
firewall wiring, fusebox/ignition wiring, and both starter electrical connections.
* Read the garage charger as an ammeter, not a fuel gauge: far right means the
battery is drawing heavy charge and is very low; the needle moves left as the
battery charges. A battery that never recovers may need replacement.
* Single click or weak grinding: suspect a weak battery or worn starter. The starter
loses condition through cranking and becomes increasingly unreliable as it wears.
* Cranks normally but never catches: confirm gasoline, fuel line/strainer/pump, tight
spark plugs, electrics/distributor wiring, distributor tune, and cam timing.
* Starts only with throttle or immediately stalls: use choke when cold, then check
carburetor AFR, distributor timing, valve adjustment, and fuel delivery.
* High-pitched chirp while running: distributor timing is too advanced. Retard until
the chirp stops.
* Valve-train ticking: readjust the rocker screws. Persistent severe mechanical noise
after correct tuning can indicate a worn rocker shaft or internal damage.
* Continuous belt squeal: the alternator belt is too loose or the water pump may be
failing. A water pump at zero condition can jam and drive overheating.
* Battery warning light while running: check belt tension, alternator condition,
regulator wiring, and the alternator connection before simply buying batteries.
* Rapid overheating or coolant loss: inspect the water pump, radiator/hoses, and head
gasket. A very lean carburetor setting also increases engine heat.
* Oil loss: verify the drain plug and filter first, then inspect the engine. A worn
head gasket can begin leaking before total failure.
-= Engine Runs but the Car Will Not Move =-
If the engine revs and gears select but the Satsuma stays put, check the driveline
before rebuilding the engine.
* Verify all three 5 mm gear-linkage bolts and all seven 6 mm drive-gear bolts.
* Verify both halfshafts: three 9 mm gearbox-side bolts and the 14 mm wheel-side bolt
on each side.
* Fill the clutch master cylinder and tighten both 7 mm clutch-line fasteners. A dry
or leaking clutch system can leave the engine running without useful drive.
* Release the handbrake completely and check for flat or jammed wheels before
assuming the gearbox is broken.
-= Inspection Checklist =-
Inspection is not just a cosmetic test. Current game logic checks suspension
condition, engine tune, emissions, road equipment, and legal configuration.
* Use legal road tires in adequate condition. Standard and Gommer Gobra tires are
safe inspection choices; racing slicks are not a normal road-inspection setup.
* Center the steering and repair bent/damaged suspension parts.
* Make sure brakes, steering, headlights, indicators, windshield, and other basic
road equipment work.
* Use a road-safe carburetor tune and a mechanically healthy engine so the
emissions/tune checks pass.
* Carry the warning triangle from the tractor/Kekmet in the Satsuma.
* After passing, keep the registration plates current. Buy the 500 mk windshield tax
sticker at Lindell's inspection office with the Satsuma nearby; the sticker became
mandatory for passenger cars in September 2025.
-= Rally Entry Checklist =-
* The Satsuma must have passed inspection.
* Install a roll cage, racing seat/harness setup, and an installed fire extinguisher.
* Bring and wear the racing helmet while registering.
* Do not register while drunk.
* Do not use racing slicks; the rally rules allow the other tire types.
* Saturday registration is in Perajarvi and Sunday continues from the opposite end
near the strawberry-field/Rykipohja side. Read the registration sheet for the
current parc-ferme and liaison requirements.
* Do not jump the start. The December 2024 update added an explicit flying-start
check and penalty.
* Before each stage, check all fluid levels and the engine's basic health. Carry
tools, spare fluids, and a spare wheel so a minor problem does not end the weekend.
* The digging bar can straighten bent suspension mounts after a crash, so keeping it
with the rally repair kit can save a return trip.
-= Police and Fine Avoidance =-
* Satsuma speeding starts above 100 km/h; Hayosiko and Gifu speeding starts above 80
km/h. Jonnez penalties begin at lower speeds.
* Driving without registration or with missing/expired plates adds day-fine
penalties. Missing a checkpoint stop is more serious than simply being a little
over the limit.
* Seatbelt violations and riding the Jonnez without a helmet use fixed fines.
* After a fine is issued, a 30,000-real-second timer runs before unpaid fines can
create wanted status. Do not leave fines sitting for days of play and assume
nothing will happen.
* Wanted status is resolved through arrest when the conditions are met; serious
traffic crimes can add multi-day jail sentences.
Technical Issues:
-----------------
-= Back Up and Recover the Save =-
* Close the game before copying or editing the save. Back up the whole
AppData\LocalLow\Amistech\My Summer Car folder, not only one file.
* If body dents are the only problem, MSCEditor can reset bodywork without rebuilding
the mechanical state. Do not use a full mechanical repair when you only want
cosmetic recovery.
* If an installed part behaves as if loose despite looking correct, inspect it in
Satsuma Report. Reattaching the part or using the editor's stuck/loose-bolt repair
is safer than blindly changing unrelated values.
* If a vehicle or part seems lost, check its saved world position in MSCEditor's map
before spawning replacements or corrupting the save with broad edits.
-= A 2025 Save May Behave Differently Than an Old Guide =-
The game left Early Access around the 1.0 transition and continued receiving
important fixes. The January and September 2025 builds changed septic-job behavior,
passenger-car tax enforcement, electrical shock hazards, and several other systems.
Instructions written for older builds can therefore be wrong.
Reference:
----------
-= High-Value Wear Symptoms =-
* Head gasket - Begins leaking at very low remaining condition and eventually fails;
high coolant temperature accelerates the problem.
* Fuel pump - Near failure it can leak fuel and then stop delivering fuel.
* Water pump - At failure it can jam, squeal through the belt, and cause overheating.
* Spark plugs - Wear changes mixture behavior and can lead to misfires.
* Pistons - High RPM, low oil, and bad valve tuning accelerate damage.
* Crankshaft - Severe wear brings shaking/friction and can eventually prevent
starting.
* Starter - Every long crank costs condition. Repeated cranking is not a free
diagnostic test.
* Alternator - Output efficiency falls as it becomes heavily worn, so a charging
problem can be mechanical even when the wiring is correct.
-= Useful Job Values =-
* Perfect 30-liter Kilju batch - 6 sugar + 1 yeast; 20 bottles; up to 3,400 mk.
* Full firewood trailer - 160 split pieces; 3,200 mk.
* Septic pumping - 1,200 mk for a full customer well.
* Advertisement delivery - Paid per delivered mailbox; useful for both cash and
countering the newer store-price increase mechanic.
-= Current-Scope Reminder =-
This file targets the Windows PC game after the January 8, 2025 full release and
includes the gameplay changes through the September 21, 2025 patch.
 |
|
|
CheatBook DataBase 2026 is a freeware cheat code tracker that makes hints, tips, tricks
and cheats (for PC Cheats, Walkthroughs, PSP, Sega, iPhone, Wii U, Playstation, Playstation
2, XBox, Playstation 3, Nintendo 64, DVD, Gameboy Advance, Gameboy Color,
N-Gage, Nintendo DS, gamecube, XBox 360, Dreamcast, Super Nintendo) easily
accessible from one central location. (Release date January 10, 2026)
- All Cheats and Codes inside from the first CHEATBOOK January 1998 until today.
More Infos |
| | |
|
